Page 33 - Sun Rays Febuary 2013

FEBRUARY 2013 SUNRAYS | 33
ONLINE: SCTXCA.ORG
A plant that is shaped to a controlled
size uses less water, while at the same
time adding order and beauty to the
landscape. Late winter is the time when
most plants need trimming, so attention
to this task now will make your land-
scape more water-wise this summer.
Plants should be trimmed before new
growth appears—so, once the danger
of a freeze is past, the race is on! Trees
are best pruned during dormant season
to limit growth and shape. To prevent
oak wilt, do not trim oaks in the red
oak family or live oaks between Febru-
ary 15 and July 1 when the weather is
mild and beetles are most active. On
these susceptible oaks, always paint
any wound, any size, immediately!
Pruning sounds easy, but then you go
outside, stand in front of the plant, and
say, “Oh, my! Where do I start?” First,
eliminate dead or diseased wood and
any crossing branches. Stand back and
look at your progress.
Next, it is important to understand
about terminal buds at the ends of
branches. During the growing season,
these “tip” buds draw plant energy to
themselves. If any growing terminal
bud is cut or nipped off, growth ceases
at that point and the growth energy
goes instead to other buds, which make
new side branches, thus a more bushy
plant. This applies to small plants,
shrubs and trees.
February Tips for a Beautiful
Water Wise Landscape NEXT MONTH: Join me to learn
how to find a microclimate for your
plants’ special needs.
Winola is Williamson County Mas-
ter Gardener, a member of the Sun
City Garden Club, and a member
of the Sun City Water Wise Task
Force. Master Gardeners and other
experienced gardeners are available
to answer questions a half hour
before Sun City Garden Club meet-
ings each month. The Garden Club
meets the second Wednesday of each
month beginning with the question/
answer period at 12:30 p.m.
By Winola VanArtsdalen
Make your cuts only above a bud, a small
side branch, a main branch, or even at
ground level. When you prune for any
reason, do not leave a stub—always cut
back so that the bud points in the direc-
tion where new growth is wanted.
Prune deciduous shrubs by thinning
out, gradual renewal, or rejuvenation. In
thinning out, cut a branch at its point of
origin to open the plant. This may be at a
lateral side branch, at the “Y” of a branch
junction, or at ground level. In gradual
renewal pruning, a few of the oldest and
tallest branches are removed each year
at or slightly above ground level. To reju-
venate an old, overgrown shrub, remove
one-third of the oldest, tallest branches
at or slightly above ground level. (Note:
It is best to prune most evergreen shrubs
by thinning out.)
Spring-flowering shrubs, like honey-
suckle and redbud, bloom on last season’s
growth and should be pruned soon after
they bloom. Some shrubs that bloom after
June, like vitex and crape myrtle, bloom
on shoots that grow the same spring and
should be pruned in late winter.
For rose pruning, research to learn the
correct instructions for your particular
type of rose. One of the joys of roses like
Earth-kind is that they require very little
pruning. In fact, they “pout” if trimmed
too much. Make sure you know how and
when to prune your roses, and the rest
of your plants!
FEBRUARY GARDENING TIPS:
• During periods of adequate rainfall,
turn off timer on sprinkler system
and just water as needed, but do turn
on the sprinkler system once a month
to check it. As always, water before a
freeze!
• Amend your soil in spring, fall, and
between plantings, but do so when soil
is moist, not wet.
• Put out pre-emergent by February 15.
• Do not fertilize until AFTER second
mow.
• Scalping is a debatable issue; if you
scalp, do it first followed by aeration,
then top dressing. If you spread top
dressing, do not fertilize, as it would
be too much nitrogen.
Source: Texas A&MAgriLIFE Extension
Service, 512-943-3300.