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Right: Chuckwagon, Kent, TX, 1930s.
Below: Men cutting meat at Walker’s
Austex Chili Company located at 500
West 3rd St., Austin, 1948.

          PHOTOS COURTESY OF UNIVERSITY OF
                            NORTH TEXAS LIBRARIES

A history of Texas cuisine

T By Ginger Przybys                                pit or sopping up a plate of red-eye gravy   IT ALL STARTED WITH RABBITS
      exas Cuisine! When you hear those            with biscuits.                               AND SQUIRRELS
      words, what comes to mind? Most
      likely you’ll say barbecue, brisket,         Texas cuisine is rich in history, diverse    The road to modern Texas food has taken
Tex-Mex, chili, enchiladas, fried chicken,         in culture and represents a blending of      over 13,000 years. Although there is no
chicken fried steak and red-eye gravy.             over 25 ethnic groups such as the French,    solid documentation or proof, it is an
Texas food goes well beyond the iconic             English, Welsh, African-Americans,           accepted theory by archaeologists and
images of cowboys and ranch hands                  Mexicans, Native American Indians,           cultural anthropologists that the first
huddled around a blazing fire after a              German and Polish to name a few. Each        settlers of what would become modern
cattle roundup, all chowing on a longhorn          brought with them their own ingredients,     Texas traveled by foot from Asia using a
steak sizzling over wood coals in an open          infusing them into what would become         land bridge across the Straits of Alaska.
                                                   today’s classic and enduring Texas recipes.  Back then, meals consisted of what
                                                                                                could be found or caught such as rabbits,
                                                                                                squirrels, reptiles or fowl, as well as nuts,
                                                                                                berries and roots.

                                                                                                Through the centuries, other daring and
                                                                                                curious explorers eventually made their
                                                                                                way to the southern part of the North
                                                                                                American land mass and settled down,
                                                                                                finding both the terrain and climate of
                                                                                                their new home capable of supporting life,
                                                                                                albeit sometimes a challenging and harsh
                                                                                                one. As more people from various parts
                                                                                                of the globe entered Texas, preparation
                                                                                                of meals began to evolve, blending the
                                                                                                techniques, textures and ingredients from
                                                                                                a diverse group of travelers.

                                                                                                HERE COME THE EUROPEANS

                                                                                                During the early 1500s, Europeans made
                                                                                                their way to Texas and lived among the
                                                                                                indigenous Native Americans. Their
                                                                                                diet consisted mostly of American bison,
                                                                                                antelope, whitetail deer as well as wild
                                                                                                fruits and nuts. However, it wasn’t until
                                                                                                the arrival of the Spaniards in 1519 that

68 | SUNRAYS JULY 2017                                                                          ONLINE: SCTEXAS.ORG
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